Sitting here with a cup of tea gazing across the water in some trance like state at half past four in the morning. In a car, I’m maybe a couple of hours away from home but this boat has put me a world away.
The scent of the wild mint around the camp site tingles the senses.
As every morning, a fish jumps right on the edge of my vision making a breakfast of some fly.
The sandy beach and all this drift wood gives me a Robinson Crusoe moment and makes me want to build something.
It’s another morning when there’s no urge to get going, just happy to wander round taking it all in, letting the body and mind wander were ever they want to go. Exploring back along the edge of this hillside going back towards the weir, thick seams of gypsum glisten like jewels from the outcrops.
A small clearing marks a prior campsite. The lock keeper yesterday was telling me how there not that keen on people camping and making fires here and there. And I have seen plenty of evidence of people leaving more mess than there entitled too, Unburned barbeque briquettes from the garage and discarded beer cans and such like. This place is a perfect demonstration of how it should be done. The only way you know someone has been here is because they’ve left a text book unlit fire for the next people. Even down to the bow used for creating an ember by friction to light the tinder. I’m humbled by this demonstration of woodcraft, and resolve to reduce further any foot print I may leave.
Each day I’m covering less and less mileage, and happy about it. 7 hours have passed this morning from when I got up to getting back on the water.
A mile down river, the Ferry Boat Inn calls me in for a light lunch. Outside I get into conversation with an old boy who has returned to his roots from Cornwall to visit his great Grand daughter. And how as young men, he and his mates would swim down to here from were I camped last night. Him working in a glass factory that exploited the local raw materials would have a test tube tucked in his swimming trunks with a ciggie for them all.
I’m interested to ask him about how the river has gone through the different stages of being polluted and then cleaned up again. He says it was after the war that things got bad, and the last time he swam he came out covered in tiny leeches and that put a stop to it. Nice to see how things can be turned around, with kids playing in these now clean again waters.
I’m interested to ask him about how the river has gone through the different stages of being polluted and then cleaned up again. He says it was after the war that things got bad, and the last time he swam he came out covered in tiny leeches and that put a stop to it. Nice to see how things can be turned around, with kids playing in these now clean again waters.
With the radio silence since dropping the phone in the river last Wednesday I take the opportunity to ring home from the call box outside the pub. How many years since I’ve used one of these. 40p minimum charge now, blimey, but you get 20 minutes. I can see from the map that I will be at Gunthorpe late afternoon and arrange a meeting with the missus.
Rounding the corner at Burton Joyce I pull to the inside shallows to allow a flotilla past that have been marshalled through at Stoke lock. A mighty impressive ocean going powerboat, with two honeys on the bridge prompt me to take a photo. Did I learn nothing about eye contact after the altercation with the swan at the start of the trip?
An inflatable RIB detaches from the stern and heads at ramming speed straight for me. Why am I taking a photo of his boat? He’s really hostile and it takes a bit of time to calm him down and persuade him I’m not Paparazzi and stroke his ego by telling him it’s the best boat I’ve seen on the river so far, before he explains he’s been having trouble with people reporting him for speeding on the river. Tosser. Maybe I’ll report him for speeding on the river..ha!
An inflatable RIB detaches from the stern and heads at ramming speed straight for me. Why am I taking a photo of his boat? He’s really hostile and it takes a bit of time to calm him down and persuade him I’m not Paparazzi and stroke his ego by telling him it’s the best boat I’ve seen on the river so far, before he explains he’s been having trouble with people reporting him for speeding on the river. Tosser. Maybe I’ll report him for speeding on the river..ha!
Gunthorpe is a magnet for river side entertainment on this sunny Saturday afternoon. There’s a wedding reception going on at this pub, there’s a motorbike meeting going on at that one. People wandering everywhere, kids zooming up and down the river in boats. Cruisers moored two deep on the pontoons. It’s all two much, and overwhelms me. I retreat across the river to a shady secluded spot under the bridge to await the arrival of Jude.
When I see her waving from the pubs landing stage I make my way across the river to be persistently buzzed by the kids in there powered dinghy’s, trying to swamp me. I’m convinced the prick in the power boat has set them on me. This isn’t turning out how I wanted.
A nice reunion with Jude, she’s bought me some supplies and takes away a carrier bag full of excess baggage of things I’ve never used. After a couple of pints I’m chilled again and making my way towards the lock pass the power boat, we have a good laugh and banter and my paranoia subsides.
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